![]() Tim switches to the bottom of the bar here because: Make sure to place the straightedge on the side of the rafter that doesn't fall off.Īttach the straight edge, and cut. ![]() Mark straightedge points on the rafter tail. Use a beam cutter for the rafter tail cuts Neither of these is the case in Tim's video, and the saw slides through the 2x12s like butter. McCulloch says kickback is usually caused "when the chain gets snagged," usually in the kickback zone - the top corner of the nose. There are some other things that can contribute to chainsaw kickback, like really loose chains that are really dull. Cutting in the opposite direction would make the saw climb out of the cut, which ruins accuracy.Ĭhainsaw kickback is caused by binding the blade, usually at the noseĪccording to Tim, for a kickback to occur, one of two things must happen: the nose of the bar needs to hit something, or the bar must bind in the wood." To cut the plumb cut, Tim recommends using a (sharp) chisel-tooth chain and the Headcutter from Big Foot Tools (Tim cuts across the stack pushing using the top of the bar for a couple of reasons: Scribe a line to connect the marks across all rafters. ![]() ![]() If the interior is attic space, there is no need.īrace the rafters together with blocks of lumber toenailed into the i-joistsĬut the first rafter and stack it along with the rest. Mark the seat cut, plumb cut, and rafter tails. If the rafter surfaces are erratic, and the interior side of the rafters will have drywall, you can shim the rafters flush. He is quick to point out that he learned this stuff from Will Holladay Step-by-step production rafter cutting Tim Uhler of Awesome Framers demonstrates how to cut common rafters single-handedly in a production setup using a chainsaw, a beam-cutting saw, and a regular worm-drive Skilsaw. ![]()
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